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Before Francesco handles artichokes, he rubs lemons all over his hands. “This is the way I learned to keep the artichokes from darkening,” he says. It is actually more effective than merely rubbing the artichokes with lemon after they have been cut. In this recipe the artichokes are baked until […]
Francesco calls these sour potatoes – in Venetian, patate all’agro. Something is lost in translation. In the Veneto the notion of a “sour” flavor has none of the negative connotations that it does in English. In fact, it implies a taste that is lively, appealing, and appetite-whetting. These “sour potatoes,” […]
This is the richest of the basic stocks in Francesco’s repertory. Built on a base of fish stock, it makes a delicious risotto and a wonderful seafood stew. “The aroma makes me think of Venice and the Rialto market, where so much comes from the sea,” he says. Obtaining the […]
At Remi this vegetable stock is used as a base for many of the risottos, especially the ones made without meat or fish. “We have many people coming into the restaurant who are vegetarians,” Francesco explains, “and we want to be able to accommodate them. When it’s well made, a […]
“Fish and seafood are so important in Venice,” says Francesco, “that when making fish stews and risottos with fish, we prefer a fish stock. For shrimp, lobster, and crabs a shellfish stocks is better.” None are complicated to prepare. Fish Stock 4 pounds head and bones of a (2-kg) white […]
Americans think of squid and its ink as the essential ingredients to make the black sauce that is served in Venice with polenta, risotto, or pasta. But Francesco points out that the sea creature with the most ink is the cuttlefish, which is a little larger than squid. Many fish […]
In Tuscany the white bean (cannellini) is king, but Venice prefers the variegated pinto or borlotti bean. “We never saw white beans in Venice when I was growing up,” Francesco says. In this dish a puree of the beans becomes the velvety, herb-infused sauce for meaty seared scallops. Sea Scallops […]
These mashed potatoes are a simple, luxurious indulgence. They are rich enough to enjoy in small portions. There are lessons to be learned in the care with which Francesco selects and handles ingredients, including the everyday potato. His scrutiny of raw materials is typically Venetian. Shoppers in the Rialto market […]
These richly flavored yet delicate gnocchi are typical of dishes from the region around Venice. The recipe that follows is one that Dario Plozer, one of Francesco’s sous chefs, learned from his mother in Udine. “A dish like this is a frustration for me,” Francesco says. “It’s really too delicate […]
Francesco’s gentle, velvety carrot soup is given a touch of festive Venetian froth with a last minute splash of prosecco, the dry sparkling wine of the Veneto. “The minute you taste prosecco, you have Venice in your mouth,” Francesco likes to say.